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Sebastian Ritscher
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AMERICAN FLANNEL

Steven Kurutz

How a Band of Entrepreneurs Are Bringing Home the Art and Business of Making Clothes

This is the little-engine-that-could story of how a band of scrappy entrepreneurs are reviving the lost art of making clothing locally, rather than outsourcing the labor abroad.
America's first textile mill started up the same year the Constitution was signed, and for decades clothing manufacturing was a pillar of US industry. But between 1980 and the present, we went from wearing 70 percent American made to almost none. As the industry went offshore, the US lost not only jobs but also the expertise, technology, and artistry needed to produce high-quality clothing.

Dismayed by shoddy imported "fast fashion," and unable to stop dreaming of recreating a favorite shirt from his youth, Bayard Winthrop set out to build a new company, American Giant, that would produce quality, affordable domestic-made clothing.

Impressed and intrigued, New York Times reporter Steven Kurutz, who had witnessed the devastation of the industrial heartland growing up in rural Pennsylvania, began to follow Winthrop's journey. In the process, he uncovered other trailblazers - from the "sock queen of Alabama" to a corporate fashion veteran who envisioned a sustainable way to grow cotton and make blue jeans - who are building a new supply chain on the skeleton of the old mills and factories, and wedding cutting-edge technology and design to the wisdom of the few workers who still know how to knit, weave, stitch, and dye.

Eye-opening and inspiring, AMERICAN FLANNEL is the story of how a band of dreamers and doers are showing how we can make it at home again.

Steven Kurutz is a features reporter for the New York Times, writing about culture, style and design, whose work has also been published in The Wall Street Journal, Details, and Spin, among other publications. Born and raised in rural Pennsylvania, he lives in New York City.
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Book

Published 2024-03-12 by Riverhead

Book

Published 2024-03-12 by Riverhead

Comments

[An] encouraging report the efforts of entrepreneurs working to bring clothing manufacturing back to the U.S. The profiles humanize the machinations of the clothing market, finding in the entrepreneurs' plights an all-American tale of resilience and self-sufficiency in the face of steep odds.